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虎嗅 2026-04-04

Old-Fashioned Steamed Dishes: The Harshest 'Godfather of Dieting' for Young People?

Old recipe, new audience

It has been reported that a low-tech, seasonal dish — old-fashioned steamed spring vegetables (蒸春菜) — is being embraced by young urban Chinese as an unexpectedly severe but effective dieting staple. The dish is simple: fleeting wild greens or first-spring shoots, a grandmother's well-worn steamer, a quick blanch and a hot garlic-soy dip. Visually spare and texturally delicate, it feels like an antidote to the glossy, engineered “light food” plates that dominated health trends for the past decade. Who needs avocado toast when you can have something this elemental?

Numbers and changing tastes

Reporters say the shift is measurable. It has been reported that by the end of 2025 China had roughly 17,000 "light-food" stores, but more than 6,200 of those closed in the prior year — a sign that the market for ready-made, premium salads is wobbling. At the same time, coarse-grain and whole-rice options have surged; one survey reportedly put their share among favorite light-food types at about 59.7%. Young people are also improvising “half-restrained” Chinese meals — stripping mala tang of numbing spice or staging theatrical self-denial diets (yes, even the viral “pretend-you’re-diabetic” routines).

Industry, biology and policy

The retreat from ultra-processed convenience does not happen in a vacuum. It has been reported that modern food companies use lab-driven recipes to hone salt, sugar and fat for addictive effect — a technical arms race that helps explain why obesity has climbed sharply in China over recent decades. That rise has public-health consequences and places the issue squarely in policy discussions: Beijing has pushed food-safety and nutrition campaigns as part of broader goals including food-system resilience and healthier urban populations. At the same time, global diet models — from Mediterranean staples to Western packaged foods — still shape consumer choice and industry strategy.

What this means

For consumers it is a modest return to seasonality and satiety: once-a-year wild greens, quick steam, and a hot dip can feel radically satisfying after months of engineered convenience. For businesses, the question is whether this is a lasting culinary correction or a cyclical reaction to fad fatigue. Will steamed spring vegetables scale beyond nostalgia and home kitchens? Or will industry innovation simply repackage the same chemistry in a new container? For now, the revival is as much cultural as culinary — and decidedly old-fashioned.

Policy
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