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虎嗅 2026-03-20

South Koreans’ “coffee sickness” — will the Chinese cure it?

Chinese tea chains press Seoul’s caffeine crown

Chinese tea brands are increasingly inserting themselves into Seoul’s tightly contested beverage market. Bawang Chaji (霸王茶姬), Gong Cha (贡茶) and ChaBaiDao (茶百道) are among the names expanding storefronts and social-media buzz. It has been reported that a livestream praise from K‑pop star Jang Wonyoung helped Bawang Chaji spike in visibility abroad; on platforms from X to Naver, fans and critics alike are talking about the newcomers. Can milk tea and specialty tea counterbalance a society built on morning Americanos and late‑night drinking? The signs so far point to yes.

Why South Korea is suddenly attractive

For Chinese operators, Seoul offers fast returns. Gong Cha entered in 2011 and grew rapidly; ChaBaiDao launched in 2024 and crossed 22 stores by early 2026. It has been reported that Dazheng Capital (大钲资本), the major investor behind Luckin Coffee (瑞幸咖啡), agreed in March with Nestlé to acquire Blue Bottle Coffee’s global store assets — a move that could give Chinese groups high‑end footholds in markets such as Korea. Prices help explain the math: a 500 mL Americano in Seoul commonly sells for 1,000–2,000 KRW (roughly $0.75–$1.50), while value chains price drinks higher; that gap creates room for differentiated tea concepts to find audiences.

Culture, commerce and soft power

Beyond price and speed, the deeper driver is social ritual. South Korea’s communal habits — heavy evening drinking, group study culture and the social signalling embedded in coffee shop visits — make beverage venues sites of identity, not just consumption. Students describe cafés as meeting places where “not studying” is socially legible; Instagrammable interiors and celebrity tie‑ins amplify foot traffic. Reportedly, many Korean chain coffees focus more on look and ubiquity than on deep product innovation, leaving taste and variety as competitive entry points for Chinese tea brands.

What this means geopolitically

This is more than a retail story. Cross‑border expansion of consumer brands runs alongside uneven geopolitics: China–South Korea relations have seen episodic strain in recent years, but trade and cultural exchange remain robust. Chinese chains face both opportunity and scrutiny as they export lifestyle products; success will hinge on local adaptation, regulatory compliance and the same soft‑power levers — celebrity endorsements and social media — that have propelled K‑pop itself. Will Chinese tea cure Korea’s “coffee sickness”? Maybe not overnight. But the move from milk‑tea novelty to entrenched habit is well underway.

Policy
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