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虎嗅 2026-03-10

After a 2-Hour Wait, Small Seafood Becomes Popular: Ningbo Claypot Is on Fire

Mall-friendly Ningbo claypot goes upscale

A wave of Ningbo-style claypot seafood — known in Chinese as 砂锅焗海鲜 — has moved from street corners into China's busiest shopping malls, and customers are lining up for it. What was once a “street” dish has been reworked with brighter interiors, seafood tanks at the door and Instagram-ready presentations. The result: two-hour waits, higher bills and dining experiences designed to be photographed first and eaten second.

This new format keeps the old claypot technique — high heat, quick sear to lock moisture — but adds Western elements such as butter and cheese, and a heavy focus on very fresh shellfish. The cooking is best experienced on-site; it has been reported that brands are deliberately avoiding delivery because packaging kills the “sizzle” and the thermal experience that sells the meal. In short: this is a dine-in product, not a takeout one.

Brands, expansion and the economics behind the craze

Several regional players are leading the charge. Hudaodao (胡叨叨) is reportedly an early adopter of butter-baked seafood and has expanded beyond the Yangtze River Delta with about 20+ shops and more openings planned. Yongjiang Yanhuo (甬江烟火) — leaning hard on Ningbo provenance — reportedly opened 30+ outlets in six months and moved into Beijing’s Xidan Joy City. Jiucun (旧村) focuses on an “East China fishing-village” aesthetic and has been quietly expanding from Shanghai. Many of these names are pitching “city first stores” in high-traffic malls such as Hopson Plaza (合生汇), seeking broadcastable novelty more than neighborhood repeaters.

But the business model has clear limits. Seafood-centric claypots push average spend to roughly RMB 100–120 per head, far above the RMB 30–40 ticket of the earlier claypot boom. Cost volatility matters: fresh shellfish raise input risk, and supply-chain pressures and wider seafood price fluctuations make margins fragile. It has been reported that some brands emphasize “airfreighted today” or “East China direct supply” labels to justify pricing and build perceived value.

Boom, bust—or something more durable?

China has seen this pattern before. Claypot chains such as Luoma Claypot (罗妈砂锅) and Taode Claypot (陶德砂锅) grew rapidly by offering cheap, bold-flavored bowls in neighborhoods — then many fell off as the segment homogenized and price competition intensified. Da Ya Claypot (打牙砂锅) reportedly opened over 200 outlets in a year but now appears to operate fewer than 100 stores, according to public data. Will this Ningbo seafood turn be another fast crest and collapse? Or does the mall-first, visual-and-experience strategy give it staying power? For now the answer is open — but rising input costs and the difficulty of scaling truly fresh seafood service make the road ahead rocky.

AI
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